Bucegi Mountains, Costila Mountain wall  

Routes: Bebe and Mircea, 6A 6+(7) 6lc, first climber   Emil Coliban - 1979
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 2100m
Elevation: 200m
Southerly aspect
A grading scale: A1
Technical grade: 6A
UIAA grading: 6+
Redpoint grade: 7
Protection: good

Access: A well-defined ridge , at 2100 m altitude is accessible from the secondary stream of Costila valley . The beginning of the ridge is marked on the secondary stream by red arrows. It is advisable to be attached to the rope while crossing the ridge, as the middle of it is friable.

Equipment : 14 quickdraws ,medium size nuts set,  (DMM-Offset), 2 active protection  (small/medium): rock empire #3 , an  alien.

Route: The Big Crack in Costila Wall
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1800 m
Elevation: 200 m
South-easterly aspect
Time: 5-6 h
A grading scale: A0
Protection: poor, requires mobile protection  
Rock quality: good, but sometimes friable
The route is on the upper part of Costila wall, last part of the wall route.
Equipment: 2 small active protections, 2 medium active protections, nuts.

After passing the Bebe and Mircea route, we still have to climb 20-30 meters till we see a crack in the wall, slanted to the left.

The route is hardly protected, on site orientation required.

Balcoanelor Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1800 m
Elevation: 150 m
Southerly aspect
Time : 2h30
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 4B
UIAA grading: 6+ 7-
Redpoint grade: 7
Protection: very good
Rock quality : good

Cezar Vărgulescu Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1800 m
Elevation: 140 m
Southerly aspect
Time: 2-3 ho
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 5A
UIAA grading: 6+ 7-
Redpoint grade: 8-
Protection: good
Rock quality: good
Access: from Costilei Valley, we have to climb a grass and rock ramp till a patch of grass, about 35m.
Climbing down: upwards till Costila-Galbinele crest, followed by  a 20 m abseil   on the other side

Galiani Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1800 m
Elevation: 180 m
Southerly aspect
Time: 4-5 h
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 5B
UIAA grading: 6+ 7-
Redpoint grade: 7+
Protection: good, but sometimes mobile protection is required.
Rock quality: good
Access: up the Costila Valley to the Horn (from Costina Wall), then up a slab till the ridge shared with

Cezar Vărgulescu and  Șmecher routes
Climbing down: two abseils on the line of "Cezar Vărgulescu" route till Coștilei Valley (with 60 m half ropes)  
Presented by: Vasile Dumitrică

Poseidon Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1900 m
Elevation: 250 m
Southerly aspect
Time: 4-5 h
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 5A
UIAA grading: 6+
Redpoint grade`: 6+ 7-
Protection: good
Rock quality: good
Climbing down:  For those who want to climb down back on the route with 50 m two half ropes, it is good to know that the best way is to climb down in two moves.  By three 50m abseils, one reaches exactly at the starting boulder. The longest abseil is the last one(the first two lengths )they it reaches 50 m.  One can aslo abseil  over the access ridge , but be careful at the bolts , they kinda move.

Scăpărici Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1900 m
Elevation: 300 m
Southerly aspect
Time: 6-7 h
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 6B
UIAA grading: 7+
Redpoint grade: 8+ 9- (ESTIMATED)
Protection :good , but sometimes require mobile protection.
Rock quality: good, but sometimes friable.
The most difficult route on Costila Wall

Scorpionul Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude : 1900 m
Elevation : 250 m
South-easterly aspect
Time: 6-7 h
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 6A
UIAA grading: 7-
Redpoint grade: 7 7+
Protection : good
Rock quality :sometimes friable  

Scorpionul route is located on Costila Wall, it has little protection and friable parts. The best about Scorpionul route is the beauty of the climb, although it is pure adventure, and every grip can be treacherous. There is no room for mistakes.

To get to the bottom of the route, one crosses a part of Costisei Valley , along one of the grass ridges on the right side of the valley.  

For climbing down, we went up Costila Galbinele crest till the exit of Flamingo route. After 8 abseils on the route and one in Galbinele Valley, we found ourselves on the other side of the wall. In order finish climbing down, we followed the path on Galbinele Valley, Hornul dintre Fire and the trail that leads behind Costila shelter.    

Șmecher Route
Massif: Costila
Massif area (wall, mountain, etc.): Costilei Wall
Starting altitude: 1800 m
Elevation: 200 m
Southerly aspect
Time: 2-3 h
A grading scale: A0
Technical grade: 5B
UIAA grading: 7-
Redpoint grade: 7+
Protection : good
Rock quality : good